Sunday
07Mar2010

turkish balance

There’s been a lot in the press lately about Turkey and a possible impending political shift.  Are we about to see a renaissance of the military or a political crackdown?  I can’t say either, or yes or no - although I’m reminded of how well I understood Turkish politics two years ago, when I was working at the Turkish Daily News.  I was there for the “headscarf issue,” the brief months when headscarves became legal in Turkish universities.  I was in the office and pretty confused in a large room full of Turks chatting and watching tiny tvs scattered around for the secret Turkish invasion of Iraq to catch up with the PKK, and I was also there for the removal of information about all of that from our papers after the request of the government and probably, although I honestly don’t remember, the sly “semi-official” Anatolian News Agency.  I was there for the big Ergenekon trials (the foundations of what’s come up these last few weeks), and the bombings in Istanbul that the PKK was blamed for but denied.  I won’t go into the details about that then, but in an email to my family after those bombings I wrote the best political analysis summary of the situation I have ever written, and will probably ever write.  

Atatürk overshadows dinner, Kadıköy, Istanbul

It’s hard for me to be interested in American politics - they’re too grand, too complicated, and probably too close to me.  Turkish politics were more immediate in a different sense, to be sure, since I was working at a daily paper.  But they were interesting because they were melodramatic, and because pride seemed so much more important than logic and games of pretense played in the US.  

But I don’t want to write about politics.  I want to write about the New York Times, and how well they have covered Turkey.  I tried to comment on the NYTimes website to compliment Sebnem Arsu, who does most of the reporting from Turkey, but comments were disabled.  I have long been impressed with how well she covers Kurdish issues - everything is complicated, and Turkey is in the American press infrequently enough that some background is needed in nearly every piece.  Arsu consistently does a great job of setting the stage so that the key recent events can be viewed in context.  She makes no accusations, in a country where blame often is being thrown wildly in all directions, it is nice to read her multiple possible truths.  

I was inspired to write this in response to a recent piece of hers from 20 February, “Arrest of Prosecutor in Turkey Exposes Tensions Between Secular and Religious Turks.”  There has since been a spate of arrests (this one’s from 2/22) of military officials - officers, even active ones in the most recent wave - accused of being part of the so-called Ergenekon group plotting to overthrow the governing Justice and Development Party (AKP), led by President Abdullah Gül and Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdoğan.  These two men frighten me; they say they want Turkey to be a free, Western country.  And I believe them.  But they are also incredibly unpredictable, and the apparent motivations behind their every move are elusive.  

boys in Sulukule, Istanbul

This may very well be the beginning of an autocratic Turkey, the military losing its leaders to political justice.  I will admit that the military was frustratingly archaic in its insistence on upholding various dated, incredibly dated, elements of Atatürk’s Constitution from the 1920s.  So, I’m not married to the military nor the AKP as either progressive or traditional leading powers.  But, the atmosphere I sense from the media here in the US is also familiar - so, perhaps this will all blow over and the recently arrested military leaders will be released in silence in the near future and Turkey will return to its familiar, precarious balance of modern, traditional, free, and insular.  

Sunday
07Mar2010

increasing wanderlust

I'd rather not be linking to Ben's adventures twice in a row, but he just posted some incredible photos from Holi and other adventures, hopefully to be elaborated in his blog, in Gujarat.  Check them out here.  And, a few of my favorites as teasers: 

Wednesday
03Mar2010

trying to get down to the things that matter

I've been going too fast lately.  Steven said I'm always tired, and it's true.  I'm so torn, because I really love Chicago these days, and as always, I hate thinking I'm missing out on things.  But I'm so busy I have to plan doing laundry over a week ahead of time, and my weekend two weeks from now is already filled up with cool stuff I have wanted to do for weeks.  I need to go buy underwear, but I have no time.  And what I really want to do is plan my yogurt cart.  That actually is coming together, so I'll keep all of you (probably very few, but perhaps dedicated?) readers posted.  

In the midst of my whirlwind, I want to share a few things that matter to me. 

One of those is Ben, my amazing friend who is an intern in Ahmedabad, India.  He writes a beautiful blog, and his most recent post I thought especially honest, tangible, and timely.  Check it out: it's about keeping your morals, your sense of what is right and wrong, while opening yourself up to new experiences in new places.  Some things are not okay wherever you are in the world, whatever the cultural norms or taboos, and I agree with Ben - poisoning yourself and the world around you is one of those things.  

Another thing that matters is public transit.  And no, that's not a jump - the less cars there are on the road, the more people are biking and walking, the happier people and their neighbors and communities become, and the safer and healthier everyone is.  It's a win-win situation.  Read this great blog post about how texting while driving is not a problem of texting, it's a problem of our auto-centric culture.  

Next comes something a little closer to home: my local farmers' market, at 61st Street at the great Experimental Station, takes food stamps, and it's gotten some great recognition for it.  Here's some more!  It's actually about a new bill in Illinois Congress that would make it even easier for farmers' markets to accept food stamps - the investment and bureaucracy can be a real barrier, as I've seen here at Open Produce.  I can't wait until spring really comes and I can actually go shop at the market!  More importantly, though, there are plenty of people who argue for bringing farmers' markets to food deserts in many parts of south Chicago.  The real problem with this proposal, however, is usually that a hamburger at McDonalds or a bag of chips at the local gas station is almost always cheaper than fresh fruits and vegetables from a market.  It's hard to convince a farmer that it's worth their time to risk going to a new market in a neighborhood where people can't afford to buy their produce.  So, I'm crossing my fingers this bill passes, the sooner the better!  Hooray for steps to eliminate food deserts in south Chicago!  

Beautiful things still matter, like this photo: 

An elderly Afghan man sits outside his farm house as a bird flies nearby in Marjah, in Afghanistan's Helmand province on Thursday Feb. 25, 2010. (AP Photo/David Guttenfelder)

Friday
19Feb2010

fridays are for film clips

Apparently body parts make good movies!  

Unfortunately I couldn't make it to the event at the Museum of Contemporary Photography (I was figure drawing at the Smart Museum instead) but Mom pointed me toward the great animated films of Jiri Trnka, and I really enjoyed this 15-minute piece called "The Hand," which is at times light and lively, and at times deeply troubling and foreboding.  Very impressive, and thoroughly enjoyable.  

And don't forget Part 2:

And, in a continuation from my William Kentridge infatuation, check out the great preview of his opera The Nose.  

More about it, including an interview with Kentridge, on the Met's website here.  

 

Tuesday
16Feb2010

photos to match the sky today

"Katowice" by Rafal Milach

"Bytom Bobrek" by Rafal Milach

They make me yearn for summer and parties and pickup games in the alleys of Chicago.  If I don't see it happening, I think I'll have to make it happen, because what else could be so perfect in so many of these spaces?  

One of my favorite captures, from the city walls in Dubrovnik, Croatia: 

Check out Rafal Milach's portfolios here - I'm also a fan of his curious Carp Fishing photos.  

"Fisherman watching the fishing from the shore" by Rafal Milach

Just wish I could see larger images of each of these...grrrrr